Job Description
As the latest step in this ever-evolving project I decided tot install a S&W race cars roll-bar. I’d say this is not a good project for the regular weekend warrior, as intense modification to the frame of the vehicle is required. Total install time was in the 100 hour range.
Step 1.
Gut the car. Remove anything flammable from the interior. Zip tie all wires, computers, etc. up and out of the way.
Step 2.
Sand, prime, and paint all of the bars that you are going to be installing. You will be grinding some of this back off and doing a final touch up in the car, but good prep work gives the best end results here. Powder coating would be another option.
Step 3.
This is where it gets a little tougher. Because the S&W cage ties into the frame rails at 6 points, it’s necessary to cut some access holes in the floor. I found that removing the fuel tanks made this process go much smoother, and will be necessary in the coming steps anyways. Plan on this step taking 6-8 hours. Removing the factory stsyle saddlebag tanks is a real pain in the A$$!!
Step 4.
Even though the cage does come jig notched, fit is never quite perfect. I had to take a few inches off the main hoop and cut it an angle to matche the frame rail slope. Grind all surfaces that are to be welded thoroughly! Once you get the hoop cut and notched to fit weld it to the frame rail. Make sure to install the interior roof panel before welding this in place! If you are concerned with NHRA requirements go ahead and put the seat in now and measure to make sure you are within guidelines.
Step 5.
Go ahead and weld in the crossbar at this time, then move to the rear bars.
Step 6.
You’ll now need to cut two holes in the rear floor plan (which is fiberglass). I cut 6X6 access holes so that I’d have plenty of room to weld. The floor is marked with a (bond) stamp where it is attached to the frame. Again you are going to want to shorten up the bars some and then angle cut them to mate with the floor at the correct angle.
Step 7.
Finally we are preparing to weld in the door bars. They will tie into the frame rail underneath the dashboard. I had to take about 8 inchess off of them and cut them at a very extreme angle.
Step 8.
Now we go ahead and patch in the holes that were cut for the main hoop to drop to the frame. I used 18Gauge sheet steel and cut /hammered it to fit. Tack weld, then seam seal for waterproofing.
Step 9.
Trim and reinstall the rear fiberglass floor pieces. Since you can’t weld fiberglass I used some kitty hair to secure these pieces then seam sealed them.
Step 10.
Go ahead and tape up anything you don’t want painted. Sand any pars of the bar that need to be touched up with 320 grit paper, then prime and paint everything. Again, prep work makes the finished product!
Step 11.
Now we re-installed all of the interior, a lot of the plastic pieces had to be trimmed to fit, along with some of the carpet. Take your time here, it will bring the best finished product.
Step 12.
Finally we can reinstall the gas tanks. On the passenger side of the frame rail, where the main hoop connects, there is an evap purge canister there. If you are working on a full blown race car you can eliminate this piece; however I want to continue to be able to be 100% emission compliant, so I rerouted it to the outside of the frame rail and hid it behind the passenger side fender liner. A few minutes to bend up a nice aluminum bracket makes the difference, and some fire proof sound deadener to eliminate rattles did the trick. You’ll have to extend the evap lines about 18 inches each, a heat gun is a necessity to soften the hard plastic lines to get a barb fitting in them.
Congratulations you have a track legal C5!!
